Robert Ward
Thomas-Allen (2007)
Ward is a Toronto-based writer with a penchant for travel and an interesting quirk – he is agnostic yet so fascinated with Catholic imagery and legend that he has penned two books and traveled extensively in Europe as a result. His first book, “Virgin Trails” is an account of his travels throughout Western Europe, describing pilgrimages and the myriad motifs of the Virgin Mary. “All the Good Pilgrims” continues the journey, but is largely a travelogue overflowing with good-natured anecdotes about the Camino de Santiago in Northern Spain.
The “Road of Saint James” (Sant Iago) is a twin avenue, populated equally by the religiously faithful and adventurers out for a good walk, by serious walkers who venture from far and wide and weekend warriors who show up to crowd the trails in summer. All are ‘peregrinos,’ and Ward, a keen observer, finds himself easily blending in. This is his fifth Camino and he rambles westward from a little town in the French Pyrenees to the Atlantic Coast at Finisterre (“the end of the earth”). Our intrepid author recounts the stories from the road and from the cozy confines of the refuges. Dozens of small tales are linked together with sharp observations and hard-earned wisdoms.
Ward tends to write fondly about these folks, as he relates how everyone comes together in times of need, sharing their food at rest stops, acting as nurses or cheerleaders with their fellow walkers. What links all the stories and allows a multitude of characters to merge into a unified narrative is Ward’s optimism and spirituality. Spinning together a tale comprised of ‘greatest hits and misses’ from his multiple walks, he celebrates the small miraculous moments that give meaning to his journey. There are sprained ankles, blisters, and bumps in the road, con artists, thieves, and religious zealots, but whenever Ward seems to be about to lose his cool, and submit to doubt or loneliness, the negativity gives way to another spirit-lifting reunion with his favourite Camino companions.
Undoubtedly an engaging read, the only criticism I can offer is that the structure of the book might have been stronger if Ward had freely mixed all his pilgrimages into one. Instead, it is occasionally jarring to have the author interrupt the narrative to explain that he is recounting an earlier walk. This is a book bound with humor and playful writing. Ward is a curious and lively raconteur, and makes for a fine guide, as he expertly details many of the legends and highlights of the Camino. The book is educational and entertaining, and one of the best travel narratives I’ve ever come across.
